March….comes in wet in the PNW, and leaves with Spring happening. Probably still wet though. This year so far the rain has been good for us in the Olympic Rainshadow.
The zone we use for our homestead is 8b. March will have longer hours of light (we cross 11 hours of daylight in March), and the temperatures get slowly get warmer, but will still freeze at night on clear days. There is of course a minor chance of snow in March, and it does happen, but not as heavy or cold as in February most years.
But more this year, it is time to think hard and long about self sufficiency. If you are growing seedlings for example, step and grow extras. You’d be surprised at how often others will jump to trade for them, or pay you cash for them. As you are planning out your seedings, think what ones you can save seed from come late in summer. Think about what would be great to have extra rows of – for canning and dehydrating.
Garden Tasks:
- Prune rose bushes.
- Get bare root plants in the ground, such as fruit trees, nut trees, blueberries, berry canes and roses.
- Plant flower bulbs.
- Plant onion sets that are bulbs.
- Weed beds.
- Clean out birdhouses, bird baths and bird feeders. Scrub them good.
- Feed existing fruit trees, blueberries and berry canes.
- Turn compost piles. Or start one!
Seeds To Plant:
To see more on when to seed, and transplant, see here.
Below are seeds you can start in March and or are ready to transplant, which are either colder-weather crops, or need a longer start time. The dates are not set in stone, it is a guide of what week may be most preferable to get them started. With a cold/wet spring, waiting a week or two more before seeding is smart.
Needless to say, the start of March is a good time to have seeds on hand, potting soil and small pots – and a sunny window, greenhouse or grow light system on hand. And if you start them later? It’s OK for many crops. And for temperamental ones like broccoli, you always can grow those as a fall crop, where they often fare better than in spring, if you miss the window, or late winter is too warm/cold.
What we are doing is using the last frost date as our guide, and backing up to figure out when to seed, be it inside, outdoors direct, or when to transplant your seedling you started inside.
So for Zone 8b, if the last frost date is April 15th, the dates going back:
- 3 weeks: March 25th
- 4 weeks: March 18th
- 5 weeks: March 11th
- 6 weeks: March 4th
- 7 weeks: February 25th
Seed Chart
Artichokes
- Start inside first week of March.
Beets
- 48-60 days, seed direct from March and on, every 2 weeks for continuous crops.
Broccoli
- 70 days, start in greenhouse 6-8 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost.
Cabbage
- 80 to 150 days, start in greenhouse 6 weeks before last frost, transplant 3 weeks before last frost date.
Cauliflower
- 75-85 days. Start in greenhouse 6-8 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost.
Carrots
- 65-70 days, seed direct in ground, starting a few weeks before last frost. Repeat every 2 weeks for continuous crops.
Celery
- 120 days, start in greenhouse 8 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost.
Eggplant
- Start indoors first week of March.
Greens
- Bok Choy: 44 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost.
- Kale: 50-70 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost.
- Spinach: 44 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost.
- Swiss Chard: 55 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost.
- Swiss Chard and Kale can be reseeded, directly, or in greenhouse, through the growing season.
Herbs
- Start in greenhouse in March, transplant or set outside after last frost.
Kohlrabi
- 60 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost.
Lettuce
- Romaine: 60-80 days, start in greenhouse 4 to 6 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost. Repeat every 2 weeks of seeding.
- Other leaf lettuce: 30-45 days, start in greenhouse 2 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost. Repeat every 2 weeks of seeding.
Onions
- Eating: 110 days, start in greenhouse 8 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost. (We grow Walla Walla)
- Bunching: 75 days, start in greenhouse 4-8 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost. Seed every 2 weeks for continuous crops.
Peas
- Dwarf: Seed directly 4 to 6 weeks before last frost.
- Bush: 55-70 days, seed directly 4 to 6 weeks before last frost.
- Pole: 65-70 days, seed directly 4 to 6 weeks before last frost.
Peppers
- Hot: 70 days, Start in greenhouse 8 to 12 weeks before last frost. Transplant after
- Sweet: 75 days, same as above.
- Ancho: 80 days, same as above.
Potatoes
- Start planting on 3rd week of March. Start prep of seed potatoes a week before.
Pumpkin
- Jack Be Little: 95 days, start seeds 2 to 6 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost.
- Regular Pumpkins: 90-120 days, start 2 to 6 weeks before last frost. Transplant after last frost.
Rhubarb
- Start 8 to 12 weeks before last frost, in greenhouse. Transplant after last frost. Let establish before you harvest plants. A full year is the best.
Spinach
- Start direct seeding start of second week of March.
Squash
- Summer Squash: 40-70 days, seed direct after last frost. If starting in greenhouse, 2 to 6 weeks before last frost.
- Butternut: 95 days, start in greenhouse 2 to 6 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost date.
- Winter Squash: 105-110 days, start in greenhouse 2 to 6 weeks before last frost, transplant after last frost date.
Strawberry
- Alpine: Alpine plants produce ever bearing, for a fall crop from first year plants, start seeds in greenhouse 8-12 weeks before last frost. Slow germination is normal. Once last frost is passed, transplant to gallon pots, set outside to finish growing.
Tomatoes
- Dwarf: 60 days, start in greenhouse 4 weeks before last frost, or for bigger plants, up to 8 weeks. Transplant in first week of May.
- Shorter Season: 48-68 days, same as above.
- Heirloom: 60-80 days, same as above.
Turnips
- Direct seed March 15th.
~Sarah